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How to Build a Golf Bag Organizer

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One of the local high school golf teams is having a fundraiser and asked if I would build something to throw into the auction. Well since it’s a golf team event, I thought it would be a safe bet that a lot of golf lovers would be there so I wanted to make something golf oriented. A friend suggested a golf bag organizer and I thought it would be perfect.

I used 3/4″ cabinet grade plywood for this build. Now, the project actually requires a whole sheet plus a little more. I had some scraps laying around from a previous project where I used the same wood so I used that instead of buying a second sheet. However, if you don’t have any scraps then you will need to purchase two sheets of plywood.

So the first thing I did was lay out some marks to set the parameter of my sides then sketched out a design for them. I wanted my organizer to be 19″ deep and 36 5/8″ tall. I gave you a few dimensions on the below photo if you would like to try and recreate the design of my sides.

To save space on the plywood, I first sketched out one side with a pencil then cut it out with a jigsaw. Then I flipped it over and upside down (so that it was in the orientation below) and used it to trace out the second side.IMG_0604 copyNext I cut a footer that is 2 1/8″ tall and 44 3/8″ long, then put one pocket hole in each end then attached it to one side piece so that it’s flush with the front. Tip: Don’t attach the other end yet. 2Then I cut a bottom that is 17 1/2″ x 44 3/8″ and put in four pockets on each end, and three along the front (so I can attach it to the footer). On the top of the bottom piece I cut in two dados that are 3/8″ deep, so that I can later attach the center cubby section. I placed these 16″ in from each side.1IMG_0612Note: This bottom is 11/16″ short of the back. So when you put it in place, it will be flush with the front but not the back. I did this so that when I add the back for the cubbies and the four braces later on, they will line up flush with the sides.

Next I attached it to the sides and the footer. I placed the unit on it’s side to make this part easier. Note:This bottom piece is flush with the top of the footer. After the sides were attached, I screwed down the three pockets in the front to connect it to the footer.3After screwing down one side and the footer, I flipped it over and repeated on the other side.IMG_0618To add some additional support, I laid the unit on it’s face and cut three runners to attach to the underside of the bottom. I drilled three pocket holes on runner then glued and nailed them into place at 1′, 2′, and 3′. 5With the main body done I started with the center cubby section. I first made the pieces that will make up the sides by doing the same steps to make the main sides. I marked off the parameters then sketched in some curves. These are 35″ tall and  17 1/2″ wide. The top skinny portion is 11 5/8″ across, then from the bottom to top of the first curve is 13″. Sorry I didn’t take a photo of the piece by itself so I could write the dimension on it. I cut the first one out with a jigsaw then used it to trace the second.6Once both were cut I cut three shelves. The shelves are all 11″ wide. The top two are 11 3/4″ deep, and the third is 17 5/8″ deep. I put in three pocket holes on each side of the smaller shelves and four on the larger one.7Now, before I attached everything I stopped and applied some edge banding so that the edges would look nice when I stained everything at the end. I grabbed two rolls of iron on edge banding then applied it to all the edges of this center assembly and the main body. If you are painting your project, then you don’t have to worry about this step. However, if you are staining then I highly recommend doing it.

Once the edge banding was on, I took a box blade and trimmed off the excess. There is actually a special trimming tool for this if you are interested. It will make this step go a lot quicker.

With that done, I started attaching the shelves. The top shelf is placed at 6″ (from the top), the second at 14″, and the third at 26″. To make it easier to attached, I laid the side on it’s side and attached the shelves on one side. ….yeah I know, I just said side three times. ; ) 8Then I turned the unit upright and used a clamp to hold the other side in place while I screwed it down.9With the center assembly finished, I spread some glue along the bottom of the cubby unit, and all along the dados, then slid it onto the bottom and used a mallet to help it along. I clamped it in place and let it dry for about an hour.10When the glue was dry I cut a back piece that measured 33 1/8″ x 12 1/2″ then glued and nailed it in place to give the cubbies a back.11Next I cut four supports that will go along the top and bottom of bag compartment. These are 3 1/8″ wide x 16″ long. I put in two pocket holes on each end then used screws to attach them in place.12

And that is it for building! Last thing to do is put a finish on it.

14I’m using General Finishes Gel Stain in the color Java for this build. I put on two coats using a foam brush and waiting 7 hours in between each coat. 16This finish is great and I definitely recommend it. Typically when I use pine plywood I use a wood conditioner before applying the stain because it is suppose to help stain more evenly and not as blotchy. Well this gel stain is a lot thicker than standard stain and one advantage is it creates a very even coloring. So I skipped the conditioner to see how it did, and I’m very happy with the results.

 

Then I also applied two coats of the General Finishes Topcoat Satin, letting the first coat dry overnight before applying the second.15

And that’s it. : ) Pretty simple build!

I think this would make a great gift for Father’s day coming up, so if you are wanting to make a homemade/DIY gift for you dad and he is a golf lover, then go pick up some plywood and get started!

If you liked this project and want to stay up to date with what I’m building, then be sure to sign up for my email newsletter and you’ll get an email when I post something new. See you soon!

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